Trevor

Have you had the system regassed yet? If not then the pump won't activate and even then they system needs to be reset by pressing various buttons (google the procedure as some as different for other models)

Hi Mark.....welcome to the Forum Generally, oil pressure switches/sensors are located on the side of the engine block around half way up. Don't confuse it for a Knock Sensor but they have a bolt running through them so easy to spot

I personally prefer LED bulbs as they are more durable and less likely to fail with vibration and they also quicker in operation which is ideal for Brake Lights

Washer jets not high enough on the screen and rear light not bright enough....really!!!! 😞

I got mine through eBay but the relay is used on many different brands of vehicle so a search of the part number should reveal some results

You can't substitute a good old fashioned spare wheel but fitting them on the roadside can sometimes be problematic and dangerous. I use Slime which is a tyre sealant and put it in all my tyres (Cars, Bikes, Campervan) and have never had a puncture since (we're talking in over 10 years on some of the vehicles). Its a preventative and works absolutely fine and is safe but wouldn't work if you took a huge chunk out of the tyre. If it was me I would use both, Slime and have a spare in the boot just in case

I would imagine if the rear washer is still working then it is either the wiper/washer switch or the jets are blocked.

Hi Mark....welcome to the Forum Its an odd one that! Worth rechecking the drivebelt for any lumps bumps or imperfections as had this once many years ago. Alternatively, the crankshaft pulleys are known to break up and can be seen to be out of alignment when rotating. Otherwise the only other thing I can think of is a fault in the power steering rack/pump (sensing valve) and this would necessitate replacement Let us know how you get on with it as would love to know what the cause is

Welcome to the Forum Good luck with the project

Struggling to find one when searching and all I could come up with was this search https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=2010+honda+civic+gear+knob+6+gear&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=2010+honda+civic+gear+knob+6+speed I suppose there are other generic designs that don't look too bad

Hi Davel....welcome to the Forum Sorry, not got any personal knowledge on the later SatNav systems. Hopefully someone will be along shortly to offer assistance Good to have you onboard

Hi .... welcome to the Forum With due respect to your mechanic, it can be very difficult to diagnose dynamic imbalances as they are occurring whilst moving at speed. The way I would approach it is to take each individual component one at a time, starting with the wheel balance (on all four wheels but start at the front first). If these are out of balance then this can cause a shudder. Easy enough job for a tyre bay. Also get them to check the tyres are not damaged, e.g. when they spin the wheels that they tyres are not out of shape. Next I would turn my attention to the front driveshafts ensuring that these are not damaged and even applying a jubilee clip to each one individually and turning it around the shaft incrementally to see if this adds a balance or makes it worse. After that I would change the rear diff oil as this can cause a shudder but only usually at very low speeds on turning full lock. Let us know how you get on with the above

Hi Kenb....welcome to the Forum I think this is the relay and is available on eBay for around £4. When fitted the engine management usually displays a lamp and the A/C system goes offline which needs a scan tool to reset.

What parts are you looking for?

That's the reason I haven't tackled the XTrail chain yet, mammoth job and can't be bothered but as soon as it starts even sounding like it could be rattling then I'm onto it. Pretty much as you have listed but semi-accessible which is something I suppose

Hi Wayne...welcome to the Forum Good luck with your search and hope you find the bits you want

Hi....welcome to the Forum The 1.7 engine uses a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor to calculate the air flow and engine load and determine the correct amount of fuel to inject https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=2001+honda+stream+1.7+MAP+sensor&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=2001+honda+stream+1.7+MAF+sensor Above is a selection if you need to buy one but also identifies what to look for in the engine bay. Check that the vacuum hose going to it is intact and in good condition with no leaks. Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi....welcome to the Forum The radio code has been lost due to a flat or disconnected battery supply. You will need to follow the instructions in the audio handbook section and insert the four digit pin code which should be written on a card or in the service book. This will then power up the audio system

I would imagine it is the wiper arm (not the blade) that is at fault as this part provides downwards pressure against the screen. Maybe worth trying a new one of these, probably dealer only though

Hi Sarah....welcome to the Forum Oh dear, it seems Honda haven't resolved this issue as its been like this for many years now. I have had to transfer complete phone books over manually in the past as the onboard technology is not that up to date (and that's putting it midly). Seems okay when the numbers are in there and calls can be made quite easily though

Hi Derek....welcome to the Forum I would imagine the engine is indirect injection with the injectors in the inlet manifold. Unfortunately, the 1.3 is the only option currently and is slightly underpowered but sufficient for around town but a struggle on long runs. Look forward to your posts in the future and feel free to jump into any that wish to contribute to. Good to have you onboard.

Its unusual for the chain to rattle but its still a wise thing to do as many a modern engine with chains seem to fail and then its game over. I have an XTrail which I need to replace the chains as although its not rattling at the moment I'm sure it won't be long before it does and then maybe too late

Hi...welcome to the forum The Accord CDTi is a superb machine with awesome MPG and power delivery from the engine. Had to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch on wife's Accord as she was putting on huge chunks of throttle in high gears so that the turbo was boosting and ripping up the flywheel. I then told her to use lower gears and stay off the turbo, made a huge difference to her driving style (and much smoother journey) and cost me less in replacement parts Good to have you onboard

This is a common issue and as Kenny says, its a simple DIY job as long as you have room to get under the car. Simply buy the correct fluid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-DPS-FLUID-DIFF-OIL-1-LITRE/392495346713?epid=1415923714&hash=item5b628bb419:g:t-sAAOSwSONcM4GV Drain the old fluid and refill with new fluid give it few days of turning full lock and this should resolve the issue. Also, check that the noise is not coming from the front after you've changed the fluid as it could also have worn CV joints

I agree with Charlie on the ABS sensors and also worth getting the ECU scanned for fault codes as this could be quite dangerous if happens on a Motorway