Trevor

The only other cause for this code is if there is an exhaust leak and air is entering the system and the oxygen sensors are getting conflicting readings (due to the extra air). If as you say, the exhaust system is defective and/or has not been secured back in the correct manner. Let us know how it goes when you sort the exhaust system

I always buy quality oil when I see it at a good price and store it for when I need it in the future

Are you losing coolant...e.g is the heater matrix leaking inside the car. You would usually smell the antifreeze if this was the case. Alternatively, if you can find a garage with a smoke generator machine then it is very easy to find the source of the leak.

Sounds like an ideal result all round Let us know how it all goes

Hi....welcome to the Forum Not sure about the mirror noise but the squeaking clutch pedal is not a new problem. I have cured this in the past with a liberal spraying of Silicon spray and it cures it for some time. The steering noise may be if the full lock is on and held at the stop position. Alternatively, rear diff fluid if needing replacement can give noise from the rear diff when manoeuvring on full lock

Hi....welcome to the forum With suspension components is it sometimes difficult to exactly determine what else would fit as a substitute but I would be surprised if it were any Rover components though. Maybe it would be easier to source bushes and press them into existing suspension arms as a cheaper and more durable option going forward?

I think I would look further into the diagnosis as not often that Cats fail they usually get damaged due to impact or overfuelling. Sometimes could be something as simple as an air leak or faulty oxygen sensors giving conflicting readings. What is the fault code that comes up?

More than likely a faulty wheel speed sensor causing this issue

Hi ..... welcome to the Forum Ask away Im sure someone will be able to help out

Hi....welcome to the Forum Same here....my first bike was a CB50J and then a Pan European later on in life. I think both the cars and bikes are superb quality Good to have you onboard

Tough call! I suppose it is a case of trying both out for a period of time (extended road test e.g. 24 hours) Engine issues are hard to come back from so probably best to go for the reliability rather than economy in my mind

Hi....welcome to the Forum That does seem exceptionally low usage for needing replacement discs and pads. Chances are that is making a scraping noise because it has not had much usage. A good long drive should clean up the discs and the noise will disappear and therefore not need replacing

It could be the revs are higher when cold and as everything warms up the revs drop to below 1000rpm and you probably don't notice it so much. Its quite normal for this occur on automatic transmissions, but it is worth having the fluid checked or changed along with a new filter

It can be a minefield to establish which oil grade is best for the engine. As you say, it can be regional but in most cases except for highly exotic engines which would run 0w30, etc then most 16 valve engines would run nicely on 5w40 fully synthetic. I would however state that it is more important to ensure that the ACEA specification is correct for the engine so in this case I would probably choose the Honda specs to base my choice of the make of oil and then go with a 5w30. I use Halfords as prices are quite keen and usually Castrol or Mobil, sometimes Petronis but as long as the ACEA spec is correct.

I'm not personally sure if they'll fit the car without any interference. Here is a link to some useful information about tyre sizing and rim offset https://autoevoke.com/index.php?/forums/topic/61-useful-resources-tyre-size-calculator/

I would consider something like Greenstuff or Redstuff brake pads which would be more suitable to coping with higher brake temperatures when towing. The downside is that they take longer to warm up so efficiency when cold is quite poor.

I would check the tyre pressures with a digital gauge when the tyres are cold and if in doubt, slightly increase the pressures by no more than 1 or 2 psi over to see if that makes any difference to the light coming on

Hi.....welcome to the Forum Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Forum Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Forum Have seen comments from Stream owners on here so there are some but not sure if they'll come forward though as not all members respond after a time away from the forums Good to have you onboard

Hi.....welcome to the Forum That's a tough one as 23mm is not that easy to determine when looking through a wheel.....I would probably remove the wheel at least and try to measure it. Sometimes the difference is whether it is 4 stud or 5 stud fixing though so worth looking again at the fitment details which might show the difference between the two

Hi ..... welcome to the Forum I suppose Eurocarparts or GSF would be the best and cheapest source for a replacement Rack. What is the problem with it?

Tough call, but if you spend the money then at least it is peace of mind. However, I would check with the dealers that they can guarantee the new mechanism solves the issue rather than fit it and find it is just a wiring fault for example.

Hi Nick....welcome to the Forum Eurocarparts or GSF are always a good source of replacement springs, and offer various levels of quality according to cost. Alloys, eBay is a good source but watch out for Chinese copies or non-branded or tested alloys

Hi Graham....welcome to the Forum Is it definitely the motor that has failed (e.g.have you put power to it directly?) or is it a relay or wiring fault? Maybe a secondhand unit is the way forward as would be a lot cheaper and only has one job to do