Trevor

I was sat in a 2011 Jazz last week and it had the USB lower down from the dash and also a AUX socket in the head unit in the dash but it was a higher spec car with SatNav and MP3 function so whether that is any different to yours?

Good luck

Have you checked inside the glovebox?

Hi...welcome to the Forum I thought there was a blanking plug on the face in between the buttons

Hi.....welcome to the Forum It sounds like the inner Constant Velocity (CV) joint has disassembled. You would need to strip the boot back (without damaging it) and see if any bearings have dropped out and need refitting.

Going to have to trace it back, could be a loose or corroded connector somewhere in the vehicle. Maybe worth looking in the areas that open and close (e.g. tailgate wiring) to see if there is a short circuit in there

Hi....welcome to the Forum I looked at the product listing and it has the cross reference numbers below: Reference OE/OEM Numbers: 8800RZVG020M20, 8810RNA0240, 8810RNAA010, 8810RNAA020, 8810RZVG010, 8810RZVG020, 8810RZVG030, 8810RZVG040, 38800RZVG020M2, 38810RNA024, 38810RNAA01, 38810RNAA02, 38810RZVG01, 38810RZVG02, 38810RZVG03, 38810RZVG04, 89247 I would search each one individually as it may come up for a completely different make/model vehicle but same part and cheaper

Hi....welcome to the Forum Eurocarparts or eBay should provide most of the common suspension and brake parts that you would require

Hi James.....welcome to the Forum You should have no problems with the sensors on the Honda as they are very reliable generally. Overall, I don't think you'll have any issues in general with the Honda as they are built well and completely durable. Heater fan motors tend to fail but beyond that I can't think of anything else that could fail on the car as a whole. Also, having the Head Gasket replaced and a major service you have covered most of the bases.

If it were me, I would try to find another sensor (new one) and take a resistance reading from it to compare the one on your vehicle to ascertain whether it is the sensor at fault. Equally, I would also examine any wiring leading to the sensor connection and check for damage or corrosion issues. One other thing to bear in mind is how tight it has been taken down to, too much and this can damage the sensor body and allow unregulated air to enter the measured stream.

Hi Darryl....welcome to the Forum If fuse 15 blew then there is the problem, short circuit or similar which could be caused by water ingress....I would inspect each lamp seperately and see there is no corrosion in the bulb holder (including the mirrors)

Hi....welcome to the Forum Sounds odd, not sure why the high beam alert unless a bulb has gone but the Cruise Control could be related to a speed sensing issue. The only common link I could think of is the radar at the front of the car or windscreen has muck on it and cannot sense vehicles in front?

I believe there is a battery cell inside the siren itself

Hi....welcome to the Forum It may be the backup battery in the alarm siren that needs replacing. If not, then check all door switches work by opening and closing each door to see if the light comes on and goes off. Also, ensure that the boot and bonnet are also activating the switches. If all windows are closed and doors shut then it should be okay, and maybe lock on the key and not the remote plip.

Hi Malk Here is a link to the location of the OBD socket https://www.wikiobd.co.uk/chassisoryear.php?md=641

Technically you can't reclassify a vehicle for additional passengers but I would have thought there would be an centre belt already there or up on the inside of the roof panel

Thanks for the feedback, always nice to know the outcome. Something like a marble is so typical of some car faults, used to be coins going into the heater fan and rattling around was an issue.

Hi....welcome to the Forum I would suggest eBay and maybe extend the search to the whole of Europe as maybe a supplier somewhere abroad.

Hi Colin....welcome to the Forum May have to search eBay for a replacement pump owing to the vehicle age Good to have you onboard

Hi....Welcome to the Forum There are some specialist Honda parts shops in eBay but you may have to trawl around to find them. Run of the mill stuff like calipers, dampers, pads, filters, etc are still stocked by Eurocarparts and GSF and are perfectly good quality (and price)

Hi This forum is for Honda cars and not bikes unfortunately 😞 Hope the restoration goes well though.....just carried out a sympathetic restoration on a 1996 Honda 600XL and it looks great after a lot of effort.

I don't think this service is being broadcast now as I can't activate it on my CRV either

Hi Nigel....welcome to the Forum The rear differential is a common fault with the CRV and requires the fluid to be changed periodically. Here is a link to the special fluid used: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-DPS-FLUID-DIFF-OIL-1-LITRE/392495346713?epid=1415923714&hash=item5b628bb419:g:t-sAAOSwSONcM4GV If the fluid hasn't been changed for a while then it may require a flush. Link to flush kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-2007-2017-REAR-DIFF-FLUID-FLUSH-KIT-SUPPLY-REG-FOR-WASHERS/293515954702?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACR-V&hash=item4456ea0a0e:g:oCoAAOSwJHhcpIUk Let us know how you get on with it

Have a look at the connectors under the seat as this is a common fault with poor connections Also, try moving the seat backwards and/or forwards to see if this puts the light out

Hi Alan.....welcome to the Forum Sounds something like the Air Mass Meter (MAF sensor) which is causing the issue. https://autoevoke.com/index.php?/news/forums/guide-to-maf-sensors-r134/ Sometimes, if you disconnect it and it runs okay then thats the problem.