Trevor

I don't think this service is being broadcast now as I can't activate it on my CRV either

Hi Nigel....welcome to the Forum The rear differential is a common fault with the CRV and requires the fluid to be changed periodically. Here is a link to the special fluid used: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-DPS-FLUID-DIFF-OIL-1-LITRE/392495346713?epid=1415923714&hash=item5b628bb419:g:t-sAAOSwSONcM4GV If the fluid hasn't been changed for a while then it may require a flush. Link to flush kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-CRV-2007-2017-REAR-DIFF-FLUID-FLUSH-KIT-SUPPLY-REG-FOR-WASHERS/293515954702?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACR-V&hash=item4456ea0a0e:g:oCoAAOSwJHhcpIUk Let us know how you get on with it

Have a look at the connectors under the seat as this is a common fault with poor connections Also, try moving the seat backwards and/or forwards to see if this puts the light out

Hi Alan.....welcome to the Forum Sounds something like the Air Mass Meter (MAF sensor) which is causing the issue. https://autoevoke.com/index.php?/news/forums/guide-to-maf-sensors-r134/ Sometimes, if you disconnect it and it runs okay then thats the problem.

If it hasn't settled by next week then you have more than just air in the system I'd say

Hi....welcome to the forum It depends how long ago all this work took place as sometimes it can some time for the level to settle. If its not leaking internally or externally then I would imagine it is still air in the system. The only way to ensure this is completely eradicated is to vacuum the cooling system and refill it under pressure. Let us know if it settles down or if you are still losing coolant

Hi ..... welcome to the Forum Not seen this issue before and cannot find the usual companies listing any Honda's which suggests its not a common problem. I would look at the battery, condition , connections and see that it is generally healthy enough as this could be a symptom especially after a period on non-use during lockdown.

Hi....welcome to the Forum Fine looking Honda....looks great with the bonnet (hood) blacked out

Hi Scott....welcome to the Forum Chances are it is the battery at fault and especially with the lockdown situation the car has not had much use and this will have an adverse effect upon the battery. I would probably replace the battery with a quality replacement one and see if this cures it. Let us know how you get on with it

Hi Michele....welcome to the Forum If the car is some distance away I would recommend eBay and mention the location so buyers will know where it is located. You can only describe the condition as best as you can and the buyer is to be aware of this before placing a bid. Good luck with the sale

That's good to hear that they are durable and unlike HID bulbs, LED bulbs don't lose power over time either

They seem quite adaptable especially for family use> Tried to look for one recently and there weren't that many around. Strange set up with triple seat in the front aswell

Hi....welcome to the Forum Most of the anciliary parts such as alternators would be the same spec for Type R (check for output and also type, Denso, Bosch, etc) and other stuff will be similar such as throttle housing but you would want to swap that out at some point for something more performance in the future. Keep us updated on your progress, always nice to see a build occurring over time

Have you had the system regassed yet? If not then the pump won't activate and even then they system needs to be reset by pressing various buttons (google the procedure as some as different for other models)

Hi Mark.....welcome to the Forum Generally, oil pressure switches/sensors are located on the side of the engine block around half way up. Don't confuse it for a Knock Sensor but they have a bolt running through them so easy to spot

I personally prefer LED bulbs as they are more durable and less likely to fail with vibration and they also quicker in operation which is ideal for Brake Lights

Washer jets not high enough on the screen and rear light not bright enough....really!!!! 😞

I got mine through eBay but the relay is used on many different brands of vehicle so a search of the part number should reveal some results

You can't substitute a good old fashioned spare wheel but fitting them on the roadside can sometimes be problematic and dangerous. I use Slime which is a tyre sealant and put it in all my tyres (Cars, Bikes, Campervan) and have never had a puncture since (we're talking in over 10 years on some of the vehicles). Its a preventative and works absolutely fine and is safe but wouldn't work if you took a huge chunk out of the tyre. If it was me I would use both, Slime and have a spare in the boot just in case

I would imagine if the rear washer is still working then it is either the wiper/washer switch or the jets are blocked.

Hi Mark....welcome to the Forum Its an odd one that! Worth rechecking the drivebelt for any lumps bumps or imperfections as had this once many years ago. Alternatively, the crankshaft pulleys are known to break up and can be seen to be out of alignment when rotating. Otherwise the only other thing I can think of is a fault in the power steering rack/pump (sensing valve) and this would necessitate replacement Let us know how you get on with it as would love to know what the cause is

Welcome to the Forum Good luck with the project

Struggling to find one when searching and all I could come up with was this search https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=2010+honda+civic+gear+knob+6+gear&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=2010+honda+civic+gear+knob+6+speed I suppose there are other generic designs that don't look too bad

Hi Davel....welcome to the Forum Sorry, not got any personal knowledge on the later SatNav systems. Hopefully someone will be along shortly to offer assistance Good to have you onboard

Hi .... welcome to the Forum With due respect to your mechanic, it can be very difficult to diagnose dynamic imbalances as they are occurring whilst moving at speed. The way I would approach it is to take each individual component one at a time, starting with the wheel balance (on all four wheels but start at the front first). If these are out of balance then this can cause a shudder. Easy enough job for a tyre bay. Also get them to check the tyres are not damaged, e.g. when they spin the wheels that they tyres are not out of shape. Next I would turn my attention to the front driveshafts ensuring that these are not damaged and even applying a jubilee clip to each one individually and turning it around the shaft incrementally to see if this adds a balance or makes it worse. After that I would change the rear diff oil as this can cause a shudder but only usually at very low speeds on turning full lock. Let us know how you get on with the above