Trevor

Crikey, thats rare but not unheard of Good luck with the paperclip and hope it works Please let us know how it goes

I have seen this before with Honda keyfobs and it does help to put the fob in a protective wallet as sometimes the unlock button can be depressed and held down which will lower the windows if the key is placed in trouser pockets or somewhere the button can be inadvertently depressed

There is an irony with all of this movement toward electric vehicles I'll leave this here..... The trolley bus (electric and in use during the early part of the 20th century) The humble milk float (electric and silently delivered out milk - in glass recyclable bottles) Once a common sight on the roads and electric I don't call what we have now progress - it is literally reinventing the wheel !!!

Another good Honda advert...almost makes you want to go out and buy one !

iCarSoft scanner is quite in-depth for scanning and resetting actuators on Honda models Quite cheap to buy and also updates easily

Not entirely sure where it is on the i-dtec engine but I would start by looking at the end of the cylinder head at the gearbox end Here is the specs for the sensor so it will give you an idea of what you're looking for

Did you get any resolve on this issue? Did the EGR pipe help matters?

I must admit i did not think the CDTi has a knock sensor as a diesel engine has an inherent knock from combustion and I cannot think that this could be negated. What is the code you have from the system?

Not personally used one to keep a battery topped up but do use a battery conditioner on my motorbikes to avoid sulphation which occurs during a period of not being used frequently over the winter period I think as long as you have some method to retain a charge within the battery even if it is minimal then the sulphation process will not occur (as much)

It doesn't do any harm to update periodically as it also updates firmware and keeps you in the system

What a great video Alan....not seen that one before

I agree, Citroen have produced some excellent cars over the years and have always innovated with new technology. The foot 'handbrake' was really brought over from America and also Mercedes have used it for many decades now. It serves primarily as an Emergency brake (2nd/3rd line braking system) which should bring the car to a halt if needed. Being as most of the cars that employ this type of brake have automatic transmission so it serves to hold or stop the car if needed.

Did you get it sorted? Unlikley to be the dash light dimmer wound down to low?

I always park my cars in gear (2nd usually - as if started in gear will mostly just stall) but also always start with my foot on the clutch pedal. Reason being, handbrakes do fail and to stop the car from rolling away. Many years ago, Citroen very cleverly used the handbrake on the front brakes in the Xantia. Which was fine until the brakes cooled down (obviously getting hotter on the front) and then the tolerances changed when cold and the car rolled away....rediculous idea and not thought about at design stage. I still hear about cars with electric handbrake rolling away albeit slower than complete failure as there is some drag on the rear discs.

Try WikiOBD in a google search and the site will show you where it is located

Generally the EGR is fine if cleaned out and driven through a high rev range. The 2.2 CRV is superb engine and actually benefits to run at higher revs Mine actually gave a better MPG when driven hard on motorways (70 to 80mph in 6th gear - higher speeds in Europe) Never had any issue with DPF, EGR or Turbo Vanes being gummed up....the high revs generates enough pressure to blow out the carbon

Some vehicles have a speed limiter which is good for operation up to 20mph and just means you can't go over that speed.....of course you have to remember to switch it off when you get to a motorway 🙂

I think the first thing to establish is whether the joint separates from the suspension arm to then be able to source the joint separately and press into the original arm? You may stand more of a chance sourcing just the joint rather than the whole assembly Can you post up a photo of the joint in the arm

HI Keith Just to let you know this is a Honda car forum. For motorcycles you need this club. https://www.hoc.org.uk/ Shame as would love to chat bikes, as I own a Honda Africa Twin but you will get more responses on the other club forums Good luck with your project, looks like you have a good one to start with

Hi....welcome to the Club Well you certainly don't see too many of these beauties on the road nowadays Looks superb condition Good to have you onboard!

Interesting article posted up by Adrian Flux Insurance highlighting a new scam regarding wing mirror damage....certainly worth a read https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/blog/2023/04/crash-for-cash-scam/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social+&utm_campaign=af-guidesandtips-content

It sounds like you are referring to the cartridge element that attaches within the air intake housing? If it is the same dimensionally then they all mostly work at 5 volts and should do the job

Hi norm ...welcome to the Club Certainly like your Honda's then Good to have you onboard!

I do feel that even the mobile phone-based SatNav apps don't appear to be that accurate when it comes down to closed roads, ULEZ zones and so many other bits of important information. I have four different ones I used on my phone when out on the motorbike and they all give different information. I think the current 'best one' I am using is TomTom which you can download onto your phone so no worry about signal outages. I do think Google has lost out on accuracy but does show more info on traffic alerts