Trevor

The engine should be relevant to the newer generation but dashboard would be different though

10w40 semi synthetic would be fine to use.

Its a tough one as old Honda's are really becoming sought after but not sure its worth spending huge amounts of money on it. Maybe worth removing the subframe and getting it welded as an option (if welded correctly) as opposed to a replacement, if available

There is a manual for the earlier version (Gen 2) but it shares the same mechanicals as the Gen 3

I would try either the Coolant Temperature Sensor or the Crankshaft Sensor as either could be causing this issue,

You should be able to just straight swap an aftermarket horn and it should work okay (assuming resistance is similar)

Thinking about it Honda did use to hide the ECU within the passenger footwell (if you pull the carpet back under the dash and see if there is a plate there that covers the ECU. Also, around that time they may still have been using flash codes which were blinking LEDs on the ECU which you then deciphered the meaning of the long and the slow flashes

That's the compromise....you really need the best of both worlds...just got to get it past the Mrs 🙂

Hi....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Nice looking engine! certainly looks like it packs a punch

Hi.....welcome to the Club Not sure, but does it relate to the instrument panel illumination dimmer control and when the lights are on/off?

Not sure where to obtain a manual. The language I don't think is available in English as it was only sold to the Japanese market

Hi.....welcome to the Club It is more than likely corrosion on the discs if it has been sat around for a while so just needs to be driven and eventually it will rub off the rust surface and return to normal

Hi....welcome to the Club My first recommendation would be to scan the ECU and see what fault codes are stored in memory. This would lead you to see whether it is fuel related, or electronic sensors, etc.

Hi Isabel.....welcome to the Club It may well be a common fuse or something that has recently been added to the electrical system (dash cam, satnav, etc)

To reset the honda crv audio system, turn on the ignition, turn the sound on, then hold the power button down until it resets.

I had a sneaky feeling that Honda recalled the Air Con pump shortly after they realised there was an issue but it didn't last for long though I suppose the only way forward is to go electric or hybrid at the very least. If you get free electric then a plug-in is the best way to go, assuming your driving distance is not too far 🙂

I would check the fuse first

Hi Edward......welcome to the forums The compressor is a common fault unfortunately and does cost a lot but worthwhile in the hot weather otherwise you could have bypassed it. I suppose the pressure is off you from no longer living in London where a hybrid or electric would be the only way forward. Good to have you onboard!

It does sound like an issue with the head unit and maybe a reboot will resolve it. I know there are a huge amount of settings in the back end of the subsystems relating to volume and other functions. Would need to refer to the handbook again for accessing them though

Hi.....welcome to the forum Seem to recall doing this job on my CR-V many years ago and think I had to remove the spoiler to access the lamp. Alternatively, it would be worth 'wiggling' the wires going into the tailgate as the brake pedal is applied with the ignition on to see if there is a broken wire which is common on a lot of vehicles where the tailgate is opened and closed frequently

Hi Mags.....welcome to the forum You could try this company and they're only up the road from you by the look of it https://cartronix.co.uk/

You are correct with the reasons for Honda not including such luxuries as Apple Play and their Sat Nav updates have been sadly lacking for many years compared to other manufacturers

Hi.....welcome to the Club I would say the tyres are of a soft compound and if the wear is on the fronts only then they are being scrubbed by driving and steering which would understandably cause wear. However, if it is on one edge only then this suggests some inconsistencies in the steering geometry.

I guess some scrapyards should be the next stop then but they could have potentially suffered the same damage as yours. Most items have a warranty period with them even though they are used parts