Trevor

Hi.....welcome to the Forum The Jazz is a superb little car and I don't think you'll have any major problems with it Good to have you onboard

Hi William.....welcome to the Forum It would be unlikely to be big ends as not a known issue with Honda. Definitely check the oil level and condition though. However, it may just be injector noise as the when the engine is cold the injection cycle is enhanced so this can create excess noise until it is warmed up. Still worth taking in to get it checked rather than damage the engine.

Hi Simon.....welcome to the Forum It sounds like it is a common issue such as poor battery condition, if does not satisfy a deep discharge test then replace (Halfords can check this for you) If you do get a replacement battery it is worth paying more for a quality one rather than a budget one. Alternatively, it may possibly be a defective wheel speed sensor (ABS sensor) as some of the lights relate to this issue. I would start with a battery test and go from there, otherwise it may need a visit to a local garage to dig a bit deeper

Hi Jane....welcome to the Forum Not sure what it could be....here are some suggestions. Exhaust system not secured on the joints effectively which may be leaking slightly and sounding louder Engine cover not refitted (top and bottom ones) A grommet removed (say to fit a new hydraulic master cylinder and not refitted properly. So many possibilities so I would be tempted to take it back and mention it to see if they can find the source of the noise Let us know what you find out

Hi Chris.....welcome to the Forum CR-V is a crossover which means the rear wheels will activate in the event of loss of traction. You should try this in a field on grass for example and you will feel the rear wheels start to apply drive. Sorry, not sure about the software update but if you find out about it could you post up here, thanks Good to have you onboard

Maybe worth seeing if Honda have an update on the transmission software

Hi....welcome to the Forum I would be tempted to check the number you have on your A/C pump and run a search for that as it may fit many other models (and even makes) that share that particular pump, so increases your search and also may find a cheaper one from another model

Larger tyre profile may change the ride quality

Have you tested / replaced the Air Con System Relay, which tend to fail. Then you will need to follow a process to reprogramme the air con system....can be found on YouTube.

Hi....welcome to the Forum I too have had problems with connecting some phones to the CRV but its worth trying another make just to see the processes involved. If there are too many phones already attached to the vehicle (maximum of five I think) then you have to delete the ones not being used.....follow instructions in manual on how to delete using voice control. Let us know how you get on with it

Hi....welcome to the Forum I find parts for Honda's from eBay are generally good quality and very reasonable prices, especially ABS sensors. I have previously bought one that is longer and used that, albeit one for an Accord and used it on a CIvic as long as it reaches and the plug is the same. Usually the flange fitting is correct and then depth it protrudes into the hub to get the correct distance from the reluctor ring, and it works absolutely fine if you can't find the exact one for the Integra. Good to have you onboard and feel free to jump into posts to 'talk motors'

Hi.....welcome to the Forum It sounds like a default setting which only allows the Park selection when the engine is off. A dealer may be able to alter this setting for different country requirements but sounds like it is doing what it should be doing.

Hi....welcome to the Forum That's strange because usually the two lights will be on at the same time if there is an issue. If the VSA is switched off then this usually defaults to 'on' when you cycle the ignition switch. Only thing I can think is if the ABS is not illuminating (easy to check when you cycle the ignition it should come on and go off soon after) or if the switch is broken (which is unlikely) Let us know what you find

I personally would go for the mk3 as it has newer technology and the drive is vastly improved over the mk2. However, the mk2 is very reliable and I don't think there would be too many issues with either to be honest. Check that the mk3 can run LPG safely (engine design) Personal preference really!

It sounds like a power supply issue, ignition switch faulty? Otherwise, you could use the 'wiggle test' which is where you 'wiggle' various wires, connections, etc to try to force the fault to occur....when it does you will know exactly where the fault lies

You would need to use a scantool to drive the ABS pump electronically. Alternatively you could bleed through the threads on the unions in the ABS block....messy but effective. Just have a watering can of water ready to wash down the engine bay. etc

I think in this situation it may be better to fit a secondhand mirror assembly as I'm not sure a repair will hold successfully. A secondhand mirror shouldn't be too expensive and is easy enough to fit

Hi....welcome to the Forum can't go wrong with a CR-V in my opinion Good to have you onboard

Hi Marc....welcome to the Forum a Honda family, that's loyalty! Good to have you onboard

Hi Hazel.....welcome to the Forum It sounds very much like either slight wear in a wheel bearing which can cause the brake pads to squeal when in contact with the disc when cornering. If it occurs when cornering right then the centrifugal weight is shifting to the left and loading that bearing, which suggests it is the left hand rear bearing that is possibly worn.

I have experienced this in the past on my CRV and it generally disappears with extended use. I would probably replace the brake fluid if it has been in there for some time and try to activate the ABS to move the fluid around otherwise it sits in the valve block and leads to corrosion with the valves and causes them to stick intermittently.

they are on all four wheels and the best method is to disconnect the connector (usually inside the boot area and under the bonnet) and measure the resistance from the sensor. They should all be approximately the same (give or take a few ohms). If one reading is non existent then more than likely an open circuit meaning it is defective.

Hi...welcome to the Forum There are some on eBay but couldn't tell you which are good though Here are some reverse cameras on Halfords but not sure if any have bluetooth capability https://www.halfords.com/technology/reversing-cameras/#isSuggestion=true

Its possible but a lot of work to fit the system, would be dashboard out job not to mention the costs involved....but possible! Also, you would have to use a later system which may not be able to physically fit the car due to the fact that the old system (1990's era) uses R12/R134a gas and this is being phased out

Hi...welcome to the Forum The handbrake is more than likely just a case of taking up the slack on the lever by adjusting up the cable a small amount. This usually cures the flickering light problem. The clutch pedal sounds like it could have some air in the hydraulic system which needs bleeding out. Let us know how you get on with it all