Trevor

Let us know how you get on with it

Let us know how you get on with it

You could try adjusting the cable to gain better efficiency Maybe also see if the cables are free to move by jacking up each corner and seeing if the wheels are locked when applied

Hi Jim Welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Hi Donny.....welcome to the Club Here is a link to recommended oils from Castrol https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/motor-oil-and-fluids-finder.html?customerType=retail Most modern oils are of a high quality so just look for the best deals for oil with the recommended specs

Fantastic news Splop just goes to show how well built Honda cars were back then

You should be able to bypass this tube as its only used for cooling (which is obviously important in hot weather and also when the steering is heavily used) but have done this on my BMW Z3 many years ago as a stop-gap and am still running it without issue.

I suppose it is to avoid damage in colder weather but not sure how it works to do this....ambient temperature sensor readings....and why? Sorry, doesn't help much in resolving your issue but got me wondering and will see if I can find out further info

That's a tough one but I would imagine if the seals are removed and matched up to alternatives such as in the link below https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+honda+accord+steering+rack+seal+kit&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB935GB935&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi5qILSp6nzAhXZEcAKHadyBicQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1730&bih=904&dpr=1 It should not matter if it is LHD or RHD as the internal seals should be the same. Another alternative which I have used very successfully and will slow down the fluid loss https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=power+steering+fluid+stop+leak&_sacat=0

Sounds like the ADAS that is there for the lane guidance, distance and collision avoidance? Can you post a photo of these markings?

Sounds like the car may need a software update to calibrate the ADAS Best to speak to your dealer about this as it could be a safety issue if any of the sensors are out of calibration

Thats interesting information Charles F and sorry to hear your wheels aren't covered for this sort of damage

Hi Almach99 .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

Very nice spot, probably not the best place to have a breakdown though

Found this answer https://www.fixya.com/cars/t15527274-torque_setting_wheel_nuts_honda_frv

Yes, you can but maybe worth bypassing the A/C pump pulley by using a shorter belt if running like this for a long time

Had a similar issue with my CR-V when I acquired it.....would have to constantly rest my hand on the wheel to bias it over to one side otherwise it would drag over into another lane. This was caused by the rear wheels being out of alignment (toe in/out) which is adjustable on the CR-V but not entirely sure if on the FR-V Once the rear adjustment was made, problem solved. Any adjustments on alignment should be made on the rear first if out of sync, most of the time they compensate by adjusting the fronts which doesn't cure it. Also, check your tyres carefully (sizes, pressures, make (e.g. Chinese) and go with that before spending big money on it

I wonder if the sensor resistance is different from the others....worth taking a reading from the new one and an existing one to compare.

Look at the rear light assemblies. worth removing, looking at the gaskets and if you see signs of water then reseal them with silicon Also worth checking that the washer hose for the rear screen is not split and leaking into the boot

I can honestly say I have seen a lot worse. It doesn't even look that blue from excess heat caused by slipping, although you can see evidence of this occurring (by the previous owner?) However, the CR-V uses a self-adjusting clutch and when the power is on it causes the clutch to slip due to reduced pressure on the driven plate. There used to have an issue with the cruise-control sensor adjustment on the pedal and this influenced the operational setting of the self-adjusting cover plate...although this only usually affected earlier models I believe.

Good result all round then! 🙂 Thanks for giving us the feedback

This is a good place to start https://satnavstore.com/

Hi Tony Many years ago, when cars were in their infancy with electronics, this very issue was down to wear on the throttle potentiometer (sensor that measure throttle pedal angle/movement) and if there was wear on a certain part of the potentiometer track (usually low down as this would be the most used part of the track if driving around town) and it gave the very same issue as you are describing. Not saying that is the case, but very similar. You could do with scanning the pedal sensor or throttle body sensor for voltage and see if there is a spike in the readings. It may be within the threshold which is why the EML doesn't come on. Also, worth checking Air Flow/Mass Meter for contamination and clean it up to see if that makes a difference. While you're under the bonnet, check for any splits in any rubber hoses as could be drawing unregulated air

Hi Tony...welcome to the Club Doesn't matter if you car is old, it is a Honda after all and good for high mileages. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club Sorry to hear you are experiencing issues on what should be an up together car purchased from a Honda dealership. Clutches do wear if abused (short-shifting, pulling away in 2nd gear, etc) but as you say this could have been caused by the previous owner. Can you upload some photos of the old parts? In reference to the transmission, I can only imagine this may have occurred if the oil level is low or not even topped up after refitting. If not, then as they say it is very rare for a gearbox to fail on a Honda