Trevor

Hi.....welcome to the Club I would definitely take it into the dealer to carry out the software update as this may be the reason for the warning lamps which effectively could shut down certain systems until rectified

I think you need to activate the Road Sign recognition app within the vehicle. Should be able to access it through the infotainment display panel on the dash

??? could do with some more information...such as when it occurs, recent maintenance history or work carried out

Sorry, should state the procedure is for resetting the AC system. The engine management will require a code reader capable of resetting the light Plenty of cheap ones out there that run off bluetooth through your mobile phone Here's one from eBay ELM327

Hi....welcome to the Club Have you considered an aftermarket bespoke ECU such as Emerald? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=engine+management+ECU&_sacat=0

Have you considered if it is a worn Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) as this can result in a shudder on start up and extreme clunking for a short period on shutting the engine down?

Hi Lisa.....welcome to the Club The battery should be in perfect charge condition at all times for the vehicle to function correctly. If the car hasn't been used much (especially if only used for short journeys) during lockdown periods then the battery will deteriorate and lead to sulphation. It could probably be reconditioned using a special battery conditioner (much like a battery charger) which will desulphate the battery and return it to almost original condition

You could try something like this for coil springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=coil+spring+assisters&_sacat=0

You will also need the immobiliser ECU as well (small white or grey box from memory) I carried out the same job quite a few years ago and got a secondhand ignition switch, chip reader and ECU with replacement key for the ignition. Worked as soon as I plugged it all in as it recognised the components working in sync which is how it would have on the vehicle the parts came from

Hi....welcome to the Club It should be a similar switch to the cruise control, probably same vicinity in the vehicle?

Hi...welcome to the Club Most aftermarket air cleaner and intake systems will fit with the correct hoses. Do make sure you get a cold air intake system so as not to draw hot underbonnet air which will actually decrease the power from the engine

I believe it was this same method (or something very similar that I used on my CR-V 2.2 (2007) model after replacing the relay and resetting the engine management light. Worked a treat!

Yes it does, and also the Air Con control unit needs resetting You can do a hard-reset by disconnecting the battery for a period of time but if you follow this procedure it should read the codes then remove them once reviewed to reset the system General Troubleshooting Information21-4 How to Retrieve a DTC The Heater Control Panel has a self-diagnosis function. Running the Self-diagnosis Function Turn the ignition switch OFF. Turn the fan switch OFF, the temperature control dial on Max Cool and the mode control dial on Vent. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then press and hold the recirculation control switch. Within 10 seconds while holding the switch down, press the rear window defogger switch five times. The recirculation indicator blinks two times, then the self-diagnosis will begin. If there is any problem in the system after self-diagnosis is finished, the recirculation indicator will blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 7 through 13 when problems in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit are detected (codes 14 and 15), the A/C indicator will blink the DTC. If no DTC's are found, the indicator will not blink.

Mileage is hard to specify as it depends on driving style

Hi Anthony....welcome to the Club Good luck with the conversion, keep us updated on how it goes as it is quite a good base car to work with. Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol Click through to the Government website and search your vehicle to see if it is compatible to run on E10

The emissions they need to check are via the pre-mot test emissions check....specifically looking for Oxygen levels which should be as near to zero as possible (anything higher is suggesting drawing oxygen post-catalytic converter which will cause the problem.

Cat system efficiency below threshold is usually associated with a difference in reading between sensor 1 and sensor 2. Sometimes the cat could be blocked/damaged and not allowing flow but if you have a new cat then this would not be the issue. The other possible cause could be there is an airleak between the joints on the cat (new gaskets should have been fitted after the flanges were cleaned up). You can block the end of the exhaust with a rag and with the engine running (outside in fresh air) if you hear a hissing from any part of the exhaust system then this will be the air leak causing it to draw unregulated air into the cat.

about £300 to £350

Ask the garage to look at the relays (which should be in the fusebox under the bonnet) and swap it over for another one.....marked Delphi and black in colour I believe

I put a Tuning Box on my CR-V 2.2 cdti and it gave it much more acceleration and smoothness in driving but the trade off was the clutch slipping when the power is put down. The clutch plate is fine and not worn but the pressure plate is an auto-adjust type and the power would cause the clutch adjustment ramp to go over the threshold and relieve the pressure on the driven plate causing it to slip. If you didn't plant the power on all in one go then it was fine but beware, the CR-V isn't meant to be fast and there is a trade off

Hi Andy Sorry to hear the CR-V is playing up after all this time of being very reliable. I would not imagine it to be a CV joint (which should also be replaceable as a separate unit and not the whole shaft) It may be something internal in the transmission and may benefit from a fluid and filter change

I would agree with @ToddBonzalez It is more than likely the A/C system relay at fault

E10 should be fine for use in the short term You can check it here: https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol

The mileage doesn't matter then as the time is overdue for replacement (as rubber components degrade over time)