Trevor

Hi Karl....welcome to the Club Look forward to reading your questions and can hopefully provide an answer to them

Thank you for posting this information which will certainly shine some light on the subject of DPF's Post is now pinned and featured in this forum section

Looks like a great event, shame its some distance for me to travel 😞

I wonder then if the direction flaps are not working and not allowing the heat to flow. Another one worth trying is to reverse-flush the heater matrix as these tend to collect sediment and block the coolant flow

Hi Ken.....welcome to the Club Sorry to hear of your poor health. As regards the HR-V, it is an often overlooked model in comparison to the CR-V which is what most people want. Although it is still virtually the same car sharing a lot of the mechanical components. Enjoy it and get some miles on it now it is sorted Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club You certainly do like your Honda's then? Certainly one of the most reliable cars I have ever owned Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club Seem to recall there may be a speed sensor within the distributor (long time since played with these older models)....worth checking all wiring going into the distributor first

eBay is always a good choice for Honda parts but check the origin (e.g. not from China) and make sure it is a recognised brand

True enough, the range will diminish with cooler weather which affects the batteries. Agreed it should be clearly stated that this range is dependent on so many factors

The ABS should reset itself if the resistance values that are checked each ignition cycle but if there is a problem with the system then it won't reset and you need to resolve the issue

I wonder if the air con is staying switched on as this runs the fans for the condenser and could also be cooling the engine radiator.

Could be the heater resistor pack failing....quite a common fault on a lot of vehicles, although usually work on high fan speed only

Hi ....welcome to the club Always good to return to a Honda....it seems the sensible choice Good to have you onboard!

Not sure, checked Eurocarparts and GSF but as you say no parts available for the front. I guess you could remove one to take to local motor factors to compare sizes, etc

Hi Des......welcome to the Club You could get the hose and take it to any reputable garage who would charge you around £60 per hour to fit and it may take a bit of time but at least its not over £100 per hour which is what the dealer would charge. Let us know how you get on with it al

Hi.....welcome to the Club A superb choice of Honda, completely reliable if maintained correctly 1. Try Autolocks or Timpsons as they may be able to cut a key for that period of car 2. IceBoxAutos sell replacement head units with Android connectivity and quite reasonable prices as well

Looks very clean and undoubtedly completely reliable

Thanks for the update and doesn't sound too bad if the car had a lookover as well.

You could buy an immobilise unit from eBay which should come with keys and barrel locks, etc Not too expensive and not too difficult to fit and no need to reprogramme

I would be tempted to start by increasing the tyre pressures by at least 2 or 3 psi on all the wheels to see if this puts the light out. Also, check and inflate them when the tyres are cold and using a reputable gauge to measure the pressures

are the tyre sizes correct and the same across the vehicle? also take into account wear on all of them - are they even?

It could be you need a new pollen filter and also that there is a grommet or something missing on the bulkhead which is allowing fumes to enter the cabin area

It could be one of a few things.... Starter motor 'growly' if worn due to on/off starting using stop/start Worn Dual Mass Flywheel - another component that will be affected by stop/start Worn clutch release bearing - as above due to keeping clutch pedal depressed to start up

Look for the sensor going to the gearbox, probably find it on the top somewhere

It should reset once the fault is rectified as the readings are taken and if all okay then the system powers up, if not then ABS/VSC stays offline. I would check the rear sensors first and go from there. Check the connections first as this may be the cause rather than a faulty sensor