Trevor

Hi Bil65 ..... welcome to the Club I have also heard the HR-V is underpowered and noisy but definitely fit for purpose (unless you intend to tow a caravan, etc). Colour is definitely a personal choice and to be honest I would look at the one you 'could live with' as opposed to the most desirable colour (especially with lack of new car availability at this time) Let us know how it all pans out

Hi Lord_Protector .... welcome to the Club Also an ex-MG Rover fan but strangely enough never delved into Honda around that time. Got older and Honda seemed to be the 'sensible' choice in comparison to the crazy cars (very similar to those in your list). Good to have you onboard!

Have been thinking about getting parts for my Harley direct from the states as prices so much cheaper and better range, but not sure on the import duty costs though?

Good to hear it is progressing with new service parts.....hopefully this will resolve the stalling issue

Hi Raiters .... welcome to the Club To be fair, it could be any one of these suggested faults but you need to focus on when it first started and looking at what was removed and refitted at that time (maybe a loose hoseclip or sensor not connected properly. Also, if it is related to throttle opening and engine load then a remap at a local tuning company may be able to smooth out the juddering. Diff oil change relates to turning into a driveway and there is a juddering and slight knocking noise at very low speed only (e.g. max 5 mph) Check the oil level and top up if necessary to ensure no damage results from low levels in the sump (but also check the oil is not too diluted in which case you could have an injector fault)

The later models (3rd Generation CR-V) tend to display light surface corrosion on the underside but have never seen it turn to deep set corrosion such as holes in the floor/chassis area. If you do get a later CR-V then it may be worth getting the underside treated with Waxoyl as this prevents any corrosion taking hold....about £100 to £150 but worth every penny

Hi Nevuk .....welcome to the Club

florin_cars ...... true on both accounts I would say

Had the airbag igniters replaced on my CR-V and also my X-Trail and both took less than 1 hour. Honda went to dealership and Nissan the RAC came out to my workplace

Interesting article from Honda https://hondanews.eu/gb/en/cars/media/pressreleases/361316/honda-etechnology-translator-cuts-through-the-electric-vehicle-terminlogy-confusion?utm_campaign=NewsAlert_5122&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=hondanews.eu

Silicon spray is quite safe to use unlike WD40 as it is not oil based and you can liberally spray it under the dash

Hi....welcome to the Club There are many different bulbs made by Osram, Philips, etc that are far superior to the standard bulbs and produce greater output with a clearer colour (e.g. blue) Halfords have plenty of bulbs in stock but be prepared to pay quite a bit more than the standard ones though Equally, they will last longer in service as well so money well spent

This is true, and the Lexus forums I know are buzzing. The more posts on here would rank the site higher in Google searches so I guess with more posts the site would be more 'viewable' to the masses. I still maintain that forums are still the way forwards as social media is very transient, the info is there one day and gone the next 😞

🙂 I guess you could introduce some silicon spray into the linkages, flaps, etc if possible to quieten it down?

What symptoms are being caused by the engine mounts being worn/broken? Also is any movement being displayed by either the top or bottom mounts (tested when pulling away)?

Wow! that's big money and I guess because it is a diesel engine that it is more desirable in France, not so much the case in the UK though

Tolerance clearances have changed with the temperature I guess.....at least you'll know how cold it is by the level of noise the car makes 🙂

Hi Morrisman68 .....welcome to the Club My first thoughts would be idle control valve and inlet system....second thoughts were Coolant Temp Sensor. Since both have now been eliminated then I would recommend the replacement of all filters, fluids (especially engine oil as this can lower compressions if diluted or degraded over the years) and ignition components (e.g. spark plugs) Go from there and see what else occurs

I believe it should be built into the alarm siren under the bonnet?

Good secondhand one from a vehicle breakers or eBay ?

Hi Flo....welcome to the Club Fantastic condition those Honda's are in, nice to see the older and more recognisable models still being driven on a regular basis. I particularly love the Prelude and was alway incredibly impressed with the efficiency of the 4WS at low and higher speeds. Surprised it never really got adopted by too many other manufacturers over the years 😞 Good to have you onboard!

Hi Sparkpea .....welcome to the club. Pee Gee is correct in what he is suggesting and also consider looking at weak rubber brake hoses which can also balloon out and lose hydraulic pressure. A very careful examination of the entire braking system is required and quite frankly for a 2010 CR-V I would be surprised if there is much else majorly wrong with it apart from simple maintenance items that have been overlooked during a service, etc. Other things to check would be the master cylinder losing pressure between the two internal seals.....would not lose fluid externally but pressure goes past the primary and secondary seals and gives these symptoms. More basic things to check would be the calipers and hoses, brake load sensing valve is not seized (if applicable), brake pads are not seized in the carrier and therefore not able to retract and return therefore requiring extra presses of the brake pedal to encourage the braking pressure to be present. Let us know what you find to be the issue.

Hi owls241 .... welcome to the Club Yes, it was a shame that Karma disappeared as it was a great site. However, it does seem to be the state of play with forums vs facebook and it relies on fellow members chipping in with some input of Honda related issues, if they can. Its the old saying, 'use it or lose it' and would hate to see another forum fall by the wayside because of facebook and other social media sites Pee Gee .... you are more than welcome to help with answering posts in the forums if you're interested?....see link below:

Unfortunately, florin_cars is correct. A lot of people tend to use Facebook as it is easier and more accessible than maybe logging into a forum. However, the level of response in a forum is usually likely to be more reliable and accurate than FB along with moderated comments. The forums rely on members signing up and also assisting with other members' issues with their cars otherwise the posts tend to go unanswered (for a few days at least).

It could be the heater flaps re-indexing or other system relays (timer) to prime the engine (fuel, intake, etc)