Trevor

Not sure it would as it senses the towball. I think there is a thread on this topic already in the forums

Halfords offer a range of double-din audio head units at good prices and you also should be able to source wiring kits to suit the vehicle controls through eBay

It should reset when it has the correct pressure in the tyres and it has been driven for a few miles. Ensure the pressures are correct, maybe increase slightly (2 psi) over the specified pressure to see if that cancels the light, you can then always let out any excess pressure if that doesn't work

Let us know what you find as it would be great to have a solution in this forum for anyone else who experiences this issue, Cheers

I wonder if it is the linkage rubbing against something metallic (bulkhead, etc)? Worth checking by running the wipers and listening under the bonnet for where the noise is coming from

Worth jacking the car up and rotating the front wheels and looking at the tread that contacts the road to see if there is any deformation on the shape of the tyre. Have seen this many times and a lump or mis-shapen tyre will create the symptoms you describe

Hi Stubsey ....welcome to the Club They are both incredibly reliable and sold vehicles as you would well know after seven of them 🙂 Feel free to dive into any posts that you feel you can help out with. Good to have you onboard!

Hi Andrew.....welcome to the Club £85 for the software update is worth the money as it would have put everything to where it should now be. However, the fluid change I imagine should be somewhere between the two quoted prices but nearer the higher price if the filter is also changed Let us know how you get on with it

The BR-V is not sold in the UK so not too sure of what performance mods are available for this model. However, a Tuning Box which interfaces with the injectors is something to consider as it may be available for the engine range used in other Honda models and works extremely well at adding a lower-end torque increase.

It could mean a worn clutch as it is trying to adjust to the cover plate and that could be the reason why as it is out of range?

It could be water ingress that's seized them in place? Could also explain them all failing at the same time (if that is the case)

If this is your spec vehicle then it is 5w30 https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/motor-oil-and-fluids-finder.html?customerType=retail&category=cars&make=honda-eu&model=jazz-ii-ge-gg-2008-2015&engineType=jazz-1-2-i-vtec-2008-2011&ref=64e1ceb4e5374f787597255e066481e1&component=engine

Hi Tom.....welcome to the Forum Good to have you onboard

The feed may come through from the cold weather equipment

That is odd, has to be a common connection, such as power feed or earth....worth starting at the switch(s) and working back from there until you find power feed Also, is there a link between the heated rear screen or heated mirrors, do these work as they should?

Hi ....welcome to the Club I guess if you could drill another hole to accommodate the bolt thats in a different position or the other option would be to remove it and secure with two bolts which may be sufficient to securely retain it to the car. Let us know how you get on with it

The engine should be relevant to the newer generation but dashboard would be different though

10w40 semi synthetic would be fine to use.

Its a tough one as old Honda's are really becoming sought after but not sure its worth spending huge amounts of money on it. Maybe worth removing the subframe and getting it welded as an option (if welded correctly) as opposed to a replacement, if available

There is a manual for the earlier version (Gen 2) but it shares the same mechanicals as the Gen 3

I would try either the Coolant Temperature Sensor or the Crankshaft Sensor as either could be causing this issue,

You should be able to just straight swap an aftermarket horn and it should work okay (assuming resistance is similar)

Thinking about it Honda did use to hide the ECU within the passenger footwell (if you pull the carpet back under the dash and see if there is a plate there that covers the ECU. Also, around that time they may still have been using flash codes which were blinking LEDs on the ECU which you then deciphered the meaning of the long and the slow flashes

That's the compromise....you really need the best of both worlds...just got to get it past the Mrs 🙂

Hi....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!